THE BOURBON RESOURCE: JUNE 2024
Ross & Squibb barrel program, a Penelope trifecta review, best $10 bourbons
THE BIG NEWS
Ross & Squibb barrel program: Private picks have become a real pain because some distillers continue to make it harder for nonretailers to buy a barrel of bourbon. Ross & Squibb (formerly MGP) has done the opposite. It’s expanded its barrel program and made it easier to participate.
Groups can either go to the Lawrenceburg, IN distillery for a tour and tasting, or Ross & Squibb will mail a tasting kit containing samples of the bourbons you want to buy. Tours are always preferable, but the sample kits are always a good option for those who live far away. Check your state laws on purchasing spirits straight from the distiller; Ross & Squibb can help navigate.
You can choose from one of two whiskeys, each aged from 4-5 years, with an MSRP of $59.99 and a yield of about 180 700-ml bottles. (That’s right: 700-ml, not 750-ml.)
Here are the details:
Remus Bourbon: Aged 4-5 years with three available mash bills:
51% corn/39% rye/10% malted rye
75% corn/21% rye/4% barley malt
60% corn/36% rye/4% barley malt
The bourbon is available at 103.8. 109.1 or 113.2.
Rossville Union Rye Single Barrel. This also has three available mash bills
95% rye/5% barley malt
51% rye/49% barley malt
51% rye/45% corn/4% barley malt)
The whiskey is available at 102.5, 108.2, or 112.2).
Ian Sitrsman, the Ross & Squibb master distiller, is easy and pleasant to work with. If you want to know more, email singlebarrelprogram@luxco.com. If anyone decides to try this out, please let me know your experience.
MORE NEWS:
Facebook page updates: I’ve redoubled my effort to update the Facebook page at least five days a week. If the mood hits you, please like it.
Green River Distilling Co. has released its 117.3-proof, cask-strength bourbon, which Bardstown Bourbon Company recently purchased. The cask-strength bourbon retails for $37.99, which immediately caught my eye. You don’t see many higher-proof bourbons at the price.
Lux Row has released its Rebell Yell 10-year single barrel bourbon with an MSRP of $99.99. I’m excited about this one because these bourbons have been excellent. I hope to have a review next month.
If you have a spare $7,500 burning a hole in your pocket, you might be able to buy a bottle of Weller Millennium, a 99-proof limited-edition bottling of wheated bourbon and wheat whiskeys. It contains whiskeys from 2000, 2003, 2005, and 2006. Oh, it comes in a really pretty decanter! It’s being released this month, but there are so few (as of this writing) in the wild that I can’t yet find any on the secondary.
Best $15 bourbons
Who doesn't like a deal? I don’t like deals; I love them, especially when it comes to bourbon.
For those always on the lookout for a bargain, consider these.
Benchmark Old No. 8: 80 proof, $10. Benchmark has a nice vanilla taste that goes down easy. It’s not complex and has a short finish, but this Buffalo Trace product is solid. It’s great for those who don’t like a lot of burn and something that’s easy to drink.
Heaven Hill Quality House Old Style Bourbon: 80 proof, $12: Like Benchmark, this is a light and sweet bourbon with hints of vanilla on the nose and palate and pepper on the finish. It won’t offend anyone and is in the “just fine” category.
Evan Williams Black Label: 86 proof, $14. This is the best of the bunch. In addition to the standard bourbon notes, its oaky-charcoal-like taste adds depth that the others lack. It’s also still inexpensive enough that you won’t mind if it’s used as a mixer, but there’s no need to do that. It’s fine neat.
JTS Brown: 100 proof, bottled in bond, $15. I know people who love this Heaven Hill product and those who think it’s one step above rot gut. I’m in between. At this price, I like it quite a bit. Its spiciness takes center stage, though you will get caramel, brown sugar, and oak. My No. 2 choice.
Very Old Barton: 80 proof, $12. This pour has a nice, faint toffee-caramel taste but spice surprises on the palate. It’s my least favorite of the bunch—I find the flavors uneven—but for the price, at minimum, it’s a good mixer.
REVIEWS
A Penelope trifecta —- Architect Build, Barrel Strength, and Toasted.
Note: These bourbon samples were provided by Penelope Bourbon without any special consideration. The Bourbon Resource appreciates Penelope Bourbon.
Penelope Architect
104 Proof
MSRP: $65
Penelope Architect
One word: Wow.
History
Penelope Bourbon launched in 2018 to celebrate the impending birth of CEO and Founder Mike Paladini’s daughter. Penelope distills its product at MGP and has a private barrel program for those interested.
Penelope Architect
Mash bill:
75% Corn; 15% Wheat; 7% Rye; 3% Malted Barley
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Sweet cherry, butterscotch, maple
👉🏻Taste: Sweet cream, caramel candy, butterscotch, pepper, oak
👉🏻Finish: Long with with lingering deep caramel, full mouthfeel, creamy, coffee
Penelope Architect
Summary
This non-chill filtered bourbon has been aged five years and finished in French Oak Staves. It’s a flavor bomb, and in a very good way. Penelope Architect takes you on a taste journey from the nose to the finish and holds a very pleasant creaminess throughout. There’s very little burn during the long finish. This is an exceptional product.
Conclusion – Penelope Architect
After I finish this newsletter, one of the first orders of business will be buying three of these bourbons, so I have some in reserve. I don’t make many predictions, but I think the combination of price point and taste will make this a popular pick.
Have you tried the Penelope Architect build? What do you think?
Penelope Barrel Strength
115 Proof
MSRP: $59.99\
Penelope Barrel Strength
This sample is far better than any of the others I’ve tasted
History
Penelope Bourbon launched in 2018 to celebrate the impending birth of CEO and Founder Mike Paladini’s daughter. Penelope distills its product at MGP and has a private barrel program for those interested.
Penelope Barrel Strength
Mash bill:
74% Corn; 16% Wheat; 7% Rye; 3% Malted Barley
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Light rye, sweet vanilla, cinnamon
👉🏻Taste: More sweet vanilla, cherry licorice, caramel, barrel char/oak
👉🏻Finish: Cherry licorice, brown sugar, cinnamon, pepper
Penelope Barrel Strength
Summary
I tried Penelope Barrel Strength late in May at a restaurant and was unimpressed. It had a light taste without a meaningful flavor profile and had none of the punch a barrel-strength bourbon should. Then, about a week later, a package arrived from Penelope with a sample of the Barrel Strength. The sample reminded me not to dismiss a bourbon on first taste. This sweeter version and its hints of candied sweetness complimented the heat at the end.
Conclusion —- Penelope Barrel Strength 18
Since it was so much better the second time I’ll now buy a bottle to see how an off-the-shelf compares to the sample, which is a more apples-to-apples comparison. Who knows where the restaurant version suffered from bottle shock or some other malady. If you’re a fan of Penelope, you’ll like this.
Penelope Toasted
100 Proof
$69.99
Penelope Toasted
It’s much lighter than I expected
Mash bill:
74% Corn, 21% Rye, 5% Malted Barley
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Hot cherry peppers, brown sugar, cinnamon
👉🏻Taste: Light oak, vanilla, sugar
👉🏻Finish: Light finish with lingering brown sugar and pepper
Penelope Toasted
Summary
When I saw a Char Level 5 on this four-year-aged product, I figured the flavors would be more pronounced. Instead, this is light bourbon that, while pleasant, doesn’t have the depth of flavor of the Architect or Barrel Proof. I was surprised by the hot, cheery pepper flavor on the nose—I love those peppers on sandwiches—and I found it to be the bourbon’s best quality.
Conclusion – Penelope Toasted
The Penelope Toasted is good, especially for those who prefer a light, easy drink. Competition in that price point will be a challenge as there are other, more economical bourbons that I find more appealing.
Have you tried the Penelope Toasted? What do you think?
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Ray Marcano writes and publishes the Bourbon Resource monthly, and he’s president of the 32 Staves Society. He’s a bourbon lover and long-time journalist who freelances for some of the country’s largest media brands. He’s the former national president of the Society of Professional Journalists, a two-time Pulitzer juror, and a Fulbright fellow.
I just picked up a bottle of the Penelope Architect on your recommendation. Was able to find it for $55 and there's a couple bottles left if I like it as much as you did!
How was it?