The Bourbon Resource: March 2024
Woodford's Derby bottles, bourbon starter set, Penelope and Willet Wheat reviews
March roars in like a lion, and that’s what’s happening in the bourbon world. Here’s some of the more interesting news:
Each year, Woodford Reserve releases a themed Kentucky Derby bottle, and this year’s version is on the shelf. It’s $55 retail but often goes for three to four times that on the secondary since these are big with collectors.
New Riff has dropped its oldest bourbon yet. It’s an 8-year high-rye, 100-proof product with a 65/30/5 mash bill. New Riff produces consistently solid bourbons, and I’m anxious to try this one, which has an MSRP of $67.99. It’s on pre-order on the New Riff website.
Yellow Stone has released a four-year,100-proof bourbon aged in rum casks ($49.99 retail). Hmmmmm. Maybe this is a new thing, as several brands —- Jefferson’s, Redemption, and High West among them —- have released rum cask products. Expect a review in the April newsletter.
Lux Row’s latest release of the Rebell Yell 6-year (also 100 proof) has hit the shelves at a $59.99 MSRP. I’m planning on a review in April that compares this to last year’s release.
BOURBON STARTER SET
There’s so much product out there, where do you begin?
On a recent trip to New York, my good friend, Jonathan Macri, the dean of the Knicks Film School, noted that he could use some help expanding his bourbon collection. And that’s a request I often get from Bourbon Resource readers.
So, here’s my recommendation on five readily available spirits (four bourbons and one rye) with differing taste profiles that will spiff up any bar. Not only that, these tasty bottles won’t break the bank. You can buy all five for about $150.
Evan Williams 1783. $20. This is a real gem of a bourbon, with standard notes of caramel and vanilla. At 90 proof, this smooth drinker makes a solid pour for anyone who wants a drink.
Wild Turkey 101. $27. Wild Turkey’s gotten a bad rap over the years as a poorly made hooch that is only suitable for use as a paint thinner. Wrong. This bourbon’s deep flavor profile of vanilla, oak, and cinnamon results in a solid and steady pour. Don’t let the 101 proof scare you; it’s not that hot.
Old Forester 100. $30. This bourbon’s thinner on the palate than Wild Turkey, but it packs strong oak, caramel, and vanilla with a slightly nutty taste. It’s an easy drinker that won’t offend anyone.
Wild Turkey Rare Breed: $50. This is my favorite everyday drinking bourbon. At 116.8 proof, it’s what a bourbon should be —- big with a long finish. The bourbon starts out spicy and moves to sweet, making it fantastic over ice or neat.
Rebel 100 Straight Rye Whiskey. $20. With just 51% rye, this whiskey has enough spice to satisfy rye lovers, while corn (45%) adds the sweetness bourbon lovers will appreciate. It has a surprisingly long finish that carries a light and pleasing pepper taste. I drink it straight, but I bet it makes a great Manhattan or Old Fashion.
REVIEW
Penelope Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey
Note: Luxco Inc. provided the Penelope sample without any special considerations. The Bourbon Resource appreciates Luxco Inc.
Penelope Bourbon Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey
8 years old (per the bottle)
106 Proof
MSRP: $89.99
Penelope Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey
This whiskey is a home run.
History
My granddaughter’s name is Penelope, so I’ve always been drawn to this bourbon. (I need to figure out how to get a bottle with her full name on it.) Penelope was founded in 2018 and has a number of different expressions. Luxco, a subsidiary of MGP, purchased Peneople in 2023.
Mash Bills
95% rye and 5% malted barley.
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Rum, faint raisin, brown sugar, white grapes
👉🏻Taste: Pepper, honey, orange peel
👉🏻Finish: Pepper, rye, slight honey, citrus, chocolate
Penelope Bourbon Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey
Summary
This limited-release bourbon (1,900 six packs) packs an unusual punch. It was finished in casks that once stored a sweet white Hungarian wine called Tokaji. That explains how a rye can be so sweet. There are none of the obvious rye characteristics that can be overpowering. Instead, it’s a big, dry pour akin to a tannic wine that makes you pucker. The fairly long finish starts with spice, and then, after a minute or so, more orange breaks through, along with a hint of chocolate.
Conclusion – Penelope Bourbon Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey
Penelope has single-handedly made me rethink my anti-rye, anti-cask-finish stances. This is a terrific whiskey that would be a star on any shelf. Its $90 price tag isn’t bad for a quality cask-finished product. Since it’s limited, I don’t know if I can find another bottle, but I’m going to look.
Have you tried the Penelope Bourbon Tokaji Cask Finish Straight Rye Whiskey? What do you think?
REVIEW
Willett Wheated 8-year bourbon
8 years old
115 proof
MSRP: $249.99
Distilled by Willett Distillery
Willett Wheated 8-year bourbon
I like it. But …
History
There’s not a lot of information on Willett Wheated, except from its website: “The first release of Willett Wheated Bourbon was distilled in the early Spring of 2013 and bottled in the Summer of 2022. The proprietary mash bill is barreled at 115 proof in Char# 4 American Oak. We bottle without chill-filtration to preserve the most flavor possible.”
Mash Bills
N/A
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Corn, light citrus, vanilla
👉🏻Taste: Slight honey, oak, candy corn
👉🏻Finish: Pepper, sweet cherry, cinnamon
Willett Wheated 8-year bourbon
Summary
I try to go to St. Marteen’a once a year to visit my favorite store —- Gulmohar’s Whiskey Paradise. They’re great people and have an amazing selection of bourbon and spirits, some of which are hard to find in the U.S. If you’re planning to go to the island, make sure you stop in (Sorry, they don’t ship to the U.S. I bring it back in my luggage). Image my excitement when I saw a bottle of Willet Wheated on the shelf, which is akin to a unicorn showing up in my backyard. I have the Willett 10, 12, 13, and 14 (all purchased from Gulmohar’s over the years) and figured the wheated should be terrific. It’s —- very good, with a pleasing honey and sweet cherry taste that surprised me with its heat. But at this price point, bourbon needs to be exceptional. along the lines of Lux Row 12 or Russell’s 13.
Conclusion – Willett Wheated 8-year bourbon
If, like me, you collect bourbon, then you need this one. It’s far less than anything in the Willett Family Reserve catalog because, unless you’re lucky, you’re paying secondary (unless you go to Gulmahor’s, which had excellent prices). If you’re giving a gift to someone you want to impress, then this makes an excellent bottle. But there are lots of wheated bourbons for less than half the cost.
Have you tried the Willett Wheated 8-year bourbon? What do you think?
That’s it for this month! If you’re an NBA fan, look at the Knicks Film School newsletter, the smartest commentary of all things New York Knicks and NBA basketball. You can click on the below button to learn more.
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Ray Marcano writes and publishes the Bourbon Resource monthly, and he’s president of the 32 Staves Society. He’s a bourbon lover and long-time journalist who freelances for some of the country’s largest media brands. He’s the former national president of the Society of Professional Journalists, a two-time Pulitzer juror, and a Fulbright fellow.
Thanks, I’ll check my bourbon facebook group and hit up my best buddy who is a liquor rep. I’ll bet shipping is the only way.
I wonder if any of those derby bottles will make their way to Alaska. I would love to snag one.