THE BOURBON RESOURCE: May, 2025
Two Proof and Wood reviews, distillery troubles, a $500 bourbon release(!)
THE BOURBON RESOURCE BIG NEWS
Garrard County Distillery in Lancaster, KY, has been placed in emergency receivership after banks claim the now-closed operation has defaulted on $28 million in loans.
With great fanfare, the spirits company Staghorn opened its $250 million distillery in January 2024 under the Garrard County name. A press release noted that the 50,000 sq ft facility could produce 150,000 barrels of bourbon annually. The release proudly noted that the company planned to add 24 aging warehouses to its 21-acre property, each holding nearly 25,000 barrels.
It was certainly an ambitious plan.
But just as the distillery opened, the bourbon market started softening. Stories of distilleries cutting staff and reducing production snowballed. Garrard, according to a lawsuit filed in the Garrard County Circuit Court, couldn’t pay its bill. Last October, a company sued Staghorn for over $2.2 million, seeking money from an unpaid construction loan. Other companies claiming nonpayment also sued.
The legal maneuvering doesn’t mean Garrard will shut down. The company overseeing the receivership could force the company to declare bankruptcy, sell off assets, or even reopen. The next court appearance is scheduled for early this month.
THE BOURBON RESOURCE NEWS, Part II
BTAC expands lineup. Buffalo Trace has added EH Taylor Bottled-In-Bond to its BTAC lineup. It’s the first time BTAC has expanded its lineup since it launched in 2006. Call me a skeptic, but I think this is simply a way for Buffalo Trace to jack up the Taylor price. I hope I’m wrong.
A $500 release. Calumet Farms has released the Trophy Decanter, an 18-year-old Kentucky Straight Bourbon. It’s $514. If that’s a bit rich, you can get the Glass Decanter, a 17-year bourbon, for $410. I don’t think any bourbon is worth that sort of price point. But if you have money to burn, have at it. (I have not been impressed with the Calumet small batch, 10 and 12, and I own all of those bottles. I had a bottle of the 16-year and gave it away.)
Another distillery closes. AM Scott in Troy, Ohio, has closed its doors. I reviewed its Rye Whiskey in February and liked it quite a bit. The distillery hopes to open a new location this summer.
More “world’s best.” Another month, another “best in the world” bourbon. This time, the London Spirit Competition named Weller 107 the best. It’s a very nice bourbon, but the best? I’ll take Lux Row 12 over that any day. Last month, Old Fitzgerald 2024 VVS won World’s Best Bourbon at the World Whiskey Awards. Let's see who is “best” next month.
Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery has laid off its general manager and the bulk of its production staff, the Nashville Scene reported. There was no word on why the distillery laid off 15 of the 19 production staff. But the cuts come in the midst of a bourbon downtown that threatens to get worse if tariffs hit hard.
THE BOURBON RESOURCE REVIEWS
The Cabinet and The Senator
Proof and Wood Distillery
This month, we have two reviews from the Proof and Wood Ventures, Inc., in New Canaan, CT. Proof and Wood provided the samples without special consideration. The Bourbon Resource thanks Proof and Wood for its support.
If you asked bourbon aficionados if they’ve heard of the Proof and Wood Ventures, most would say no. It’s in New Canaan, CT., far from Kentucky’s bourbon trail. Its products don’t have wide distribution, at least not yet, and that makes me sad. The Representative, reviewed last month, is a very good barrel proof product at a reasonable cost, and I wish I could easily find it.
This month, we have two products from the Proof and Wood DC collection, which began with The Presidential Dram, a special release around the Presidential election. A positive response to that release resulted in the distillery expanding the collection with The Justice and The Ambassador (limited items), and then The Senator, Representative, and The Cabinet, all regular items.
The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys
Proof: 112.5
MSRP: $110
The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys
A terrific blend of rye and bourbon means this whiskey has something for everyone.
History
The Cabinet is a Proof and Wood Ventures product in New Canaan, CT. It’s part of the distillery’s DC collection of whiskies.
The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys
Mash bill:
From the website: Bottled in 2023, the barrels used in the blend are aged between 5 and 9 years, featuring the following whiskies:
2014 95% Rye, 5% Barley
2015 95% Rye, 5% Barley
2016 95% Rye, 5% Barley
2017 95% Rye, 5% Barley
2016 Bourbon 99% Corn, 1% Barley
2017 Bourbon 75% Corn, 21% Rye, 4% Barley
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Soft corn, burnt toffee, eucalyptus, caramel, rye
👉🏻Taste: Vanilla, caramel, sweet honey, pepper.
👉🏻Finish: Light, little burn, caramel, toffee, allspice
The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys
Summary
Looking at the mix of bourbons and whiskies in the Cabinet, I had no idea what to expect. Would it be rye forward? Would the corn balance it out? The Cabinet is an excellent blend of flavors that gives rye drinkers just enough to satisfy their taste buds while providing straight bourbon drinkers with the traditional flavors they love.
A sweet honey dominates the initial taste before caramel, vanilla, and a quick, slight spice take over. It tastes as you would expect from a 112.52 proof bourbon—— just hot enough without being over the top. I thought this would be a spice bomb, but it’s not. It’s warm, not hot, and the allspice kick lingers.
Conclusion – The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys
This pour has solid body and flavor, enough so that rye and bourbon lovers will find it appealing. You might find this whiskey confounding, from a taste perspective, because there are so many flavors that quickly blend. That’s not a bad thing. It’s what gives the pour its character.
Have you tried The Cabinet Barrel Proof Blend of Straight Whiskeys? What do you think?
The Senator Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey
Proof: 116.78, though proof varies
MSRP: $80
The Senator Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey
Now THAT’S some seriously sweet heat.
History
The Senator is a Proof and Wood Distillery product in New Canaan, CT. It’s part of the distillery’s DC collection of whiskies.
The Cabinet Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey
Mash bill: 95% Rye, 5% Malted Barley
Let’s taste it:
🛏 Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
👉🏻Nose: Rye toast, pepper, allspice, fresh cut grass
👉🏻Taste: Orange, vanilla, light caramel, rye, pepper
👉🏻Finish: Long with hot, pepper, sweet candied orange
The Senator Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey
Summary
My palate must be changing. I used to be a dessert fiend who would eat cakes, pies, and cookies until I bloated. Now I prefer chips and pretzels. I start with that missive because I believe that change is carrying over the rye whiskies. I’ve found the last three I’ve tried exceptional. The Senator fits in the exceptional bucket.
This 2023 whiskey has more complexity than most I’ve recently tasted. Since it’s a high-proof 95 percent rye, I expected lots of pepper with unpleasant heat. Instead, I got a pleasant sniff of rye on the nose, and a surprise on the first sip with a delicious orange sweetness. After a few seconds, the spice hits and carries through with a long, warm finish. And there’s another surprise. The hot finish doesn’t end with spice, but instead coats the mouth with a sweet, candied orange.
Conclusion – The Senator Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey
This has “a cool night by the fire smoking a cigar” written all over it. But I’m not going to be able to wait for the Fall before I dive into this again. It’s an amazing pour that will take some effort to find. It’s worth it.
Have you tried The Senator Barrel Proof Straight Bourbon Whiskey? What do you think?
The Cabinet vs. The Senator
Both are terrific in different ways. The Senator is my type of drink. It’s big and bold with amazing flavors. It’s one you sip slowly and savor. The Cabinet is lighter with tremendous flavors that will appeal more to bourbon drinkers. This isn’t an either-or choice. If you can get them both, do so.
COMING IN JUNE: Three more Proof and Wood reviews
COMING IN JULY: The Knob Creek private barrel cask strength selection
That’s it for this month! I hope you enjoyed The Bourbon Resource. Please visit our friends at Bourbon Obsessed, the best source of distillery reviews around.
Ray Marcano writes and publishes the Bourbon Resource monthly, and he’s president of the 32 Staves Society. He’s a bourbon lover and long-time journalist who freelances for some of the country’s largest media brands. He’s the former national president of the Society of Professional Journalists, a two-time Pulitzer juror, and a Fulbright fellow.
REVIEW:
KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK
Proof:
MSRP:
KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK
A solid, higher proof option at a reasonable price point
History
KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK
Mash bill:
Let’s taste it:
Rested for 15 minutes in a Glencairn glass
Nose:
Taste:
Finish:
KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK
Summary
Conclusion – KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK
Have you tried the KNOB CREEK CASK STRENGTH PRIVATE PICK? What do you think?